The Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
The jewel in the Trastevere crown, is the oldest church in Rome the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere. The first of many churches I will visit on my journey.
Churches, Christianity and of course, history is at the heart and soul of Italy. If you aren’t curious about this trio, if you don’t seek them out to learn a little about this ancient country you will miss out on the romance of Italy. Of course you must visit the Vatican and St Peter’s when visiting Rome!
To be clear…
I should point out here that I’m not accustomed to seeking out Christian churches when I travel. I haven’t been inspired by them since my childhood priest could not answer my seemingly innocent questions about evolution. His answer seemed like a fantasy in a fairy tale that made me question Christianity from a young age. But I digress.
So not really embracing Christianity or the opulence of churches around the world, The Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere was where I sat a while to understand why this church was so important to Rome. To be truthful, the story that sits behind the church and it’s famous gold mosaics is more interesting.
The story of The Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
The Basilica, is said to be the first church in Rome and an important step to the legalization of Christianity by Emperor Constantine in 313AD. Prior to the church being built by Pope Callisti around 220AD Christians were forced to worship secretly (and illegally) at a home of a fellow Christian.
A place to drink or workshop?
Before the church was built in Rome, a scuffle of sorts broke out between the Christians and Roman soldiers over the use of a public building called Taberna Meritoria which had been used by both groups. The Christians wanted to build a house that they could use as a church while the soldiers wanted to use it as a tavern to entertain veterans. Surprisingly, the Emperor at the time decided to allow the Christians to worship rather than allow drunken soldiers take over the spot. So a simple place of worship was built by Pope Callisti 100 years before Christianity was legalised.
Unexplained spurting oil!
Myths and legends about Trastavere’s Basilica’s are abound, but the most famous story is that thirty-eight years before the birth of Christ, an unexplained stream of an oil like substance spurted from the ground. Curiously, after the birth of Christ, the spurt of oil retrospectively became known as a prophetic sign of Christ’s arrival 38 years later (some say that Christians knew at that moment that it was a sign of the birth of Christ – who knows). Pope Callisto1 honoured the prophecy by building Rome’s first church on the same site that includes a marker where the oil first appeared.
Good story uh. There’s more to it than that with various important people adding to the building over time and rebuilding after fire etc. But this is the story that stuck with me.
And now-Basilica di Santa Maria
I entered to find simple wooden bench stools sitting on a beautiful mosaic of tiles in burgundy, cream and green tiny triangles that formed circles that connected to the next as they made their way to the stunning alter. I took my seat on one of the stools and prepared to take it all in.
21 Granite Columns
I counted 21 granite columns that divided the church into three naves and supported a ceiling made of timber. The ceiling captivated me. Gold, gold, gold and more gold. Carved ornate frames of gold swirls on muted backgrounds of burgundy and green reflective on the colours in the floor. The frames seemed to be displaying more gold carvings of faces, and angels and other religious figures that no doubt told a story that I hadn’t heard yet. A coat of arms in the centre of the ceiling caught my eye – I must find out who belongs to that.
Gold Mosaics
Take a look at the mosaics decorating the cornice that travels around the ceiling. Swirls of blue, red and green tiny mosaic squares highlighted by glittering gold tiles. Probably real gold tiles. Stunning and unforgettable.
Vibrant to subtle
At the front of the church. There is a stark contrast between the style of the nave and the rest of the basilica. The swirls of gold and vibrant reds and blues make way for delicate blue, pink and green angels. This, I decided, reflects moments in history as people have added their own personality to the church consistent with the style of the time.
In shadows at the back of the Basilica di Santa Maria…
In all of this glitter, at the back of the church, sitting in the shadows, a statue caught my eye. I stood and contemplated it for some time. The statue was of a man of middle eastern heritage holding Christ with dark brown skin holding. I’d never seen Christ depicted like this before. Homage to his middle eastern heritage perhaps?
Mindful Moment
From my seat on the edge of a fountain in Rome, I was a part of an ancient piazza full of people meeting for a chat, a meal or to do what I was doing – people watching. There were clubs and bars, theatres and cinemas and unique little boutiques selling all kinds of wares. The air was crisp the cement of the waterfall was a cold seat but I determined to stay put. It was a great vantage point!
I contemplated the famous church from the outside. I could not imagine the history that occurred on this site. The building I was looking at is nothing like the humble original in the story. It has been reshaped by history bit by bit over time.