Beautiful Rapallo
Ah the Riviera di Levante. Rapallo on the Italian Riviera is where the rich and famous go for their summer holidays and where I go in winter because it is affordable!
Camogli, Recco, Santa Margherita and Portofino are Rapallo’s glamorous cousins and they make up a string of old-fashioned seaside resorts. I picked Rapallo as my base to visit the other towns because it was conveniently with frequent transport. It’s also a bit busier in the winter (when I was visiting) and less expensive than it’s relatives. If you have a car you can get to any other towns in under 30mins.
Threatening skies over Rapallo.
Having said all of that, I got the timing of my visit very wrong. The theory of why I was staying in Rapallo was right but my reality was very different. The ferries to the other villages had stopped the week before I got there, the famous funicular, the cable car from Rapallo to Montallegro wasn’t moving. The weather was overcast, sometimes raining and cold. I provide evidence in the photo to the left! It was early January. All was not lost…
The Medieval Village of Rapallo
The cobbled streets of the medieval village at the centre of Rapallo are now home to a web of pedestrian-only shopping streets with beautifully painted tall buildings. Something I love about Italy is that the shops are small, specialise in something beautiful or tasty and are usually owned by the person who greets you when you walk inside. A far cry from the chain department store trend in other cities.
I strolled along Via Mazzini, via Cairoli, via Venezia and visited any number of other alleys that darted off to the left and right. Trompe l’oeil decorated the facades tricking the eye into believing it was witnessing a three dimensional building and garden and many shrines dedicated to Our Lady of Montallegro. All of this mixed in with apartments, shops and fabulous seafood restaurants.
Portals and frescoes remain in the historic centre and one gate that remains from the ancient walls called Saline Gate.
The Kiosk of Music.
On the other side of the gate, in the middle of the promenade is the Kiosk of Music. I was compelled to stop and look at this building. It’s different to any building in Rapallo – in fact in Italy as far as I know. A domed pavilion supported by twelve columns – not unremarkable so far. What was different were the frescos covering the dome. They were so delicate and painted in pastel blues and pinks. Dainty images. The Kiosk of Music has been compared to the famous pavilions of the finest garden spas in Europe.
The Kiosk of Music was donated by the Chileans (I must find out the history here) as a building to provide a stage for the finest for bands and concerts of the time. The art nouveau style fresco is a chronical of the most famous composers in the world: Rossini, Bellini, Boito, Beethoven, Auber, Meyerbeer, Palestrina, Mozart, Berlioz, Gluck. Somehow the pavilion seemed out of place. Difficult to pass by with-out a closer look. Beautiful in it’s own way.
Lungonmare Vittorio Veneto
Walk through the gate from medieval Rapallo to a magnificent seaside prominade – Lungonmare Vittorio Veneto. Lined with a row of palm trees and art nouveau terraces, restaurants, bars and hotels facing a large harbour. The view of the harbour which the prominade follows in a semi-circle is home to one of the most important (read prestigious and wealthy) marinas in Italy. I strolled along the prominade to Porto Carlo Riva (marina) to take a look at the boats that I will never afford! I found something more beautiful though. The view back to Rapallo across the Marina was simply breathtaking and a memory that I will take with me forever.
Rapallo Castle.
Rapallo Castle. Defence against pirates, a prison and now a gallery.
At the eastern end of the promenade is the unmistakable symbol of the city of Rapallo – Rapallo Castle. The Castle was built in 1951 to protect the city from the constant raids by pirates after Dragut, a Turkish pirate who ransacked and nearly burnt Rapallo to the ground in 1549.
Rapallo Castle has been a fort, a prison and a home to a captain. Now it is an exhibition centre and the focal point for many celebrations and important meetings. The history is a web of tales. This castle has seen all manner of gatherings. Make sure you visit Rapallo Castle at night. It is lit by a magnificent orange light making it look regal and somewhat ghostly at the same time.
Bagni Ariston Seafood Resturant
In the drizzle of the day, I visited Bagni Ariston, a seafood restaurant on the promenade and next to Rapallo Castle. The atmosphere was casual, welcoming, warm and the food was delicious along with the accompanying wine. There I settled for some time taking in the beauty of Rapallo but intriguing to me, were the locals visiting the promenade with friends nattering away about life, taking it slow and enjoying life in Rapallo.
Rapallo – Where Artists and Kings are Inspired
“O sweet Rapallo, a city of gold, illuminated by coral sunsets,
your emerald sea and your blue sky make every couple dream.
You are the jewel of Tigullio,
paradise of love lovers you are the flame…”.
Prince Antonio de Curtis, best known by his stage name Totò.
(so romantic!)
The famous people of Rapallo
Snaps around Rapallo
Where I stayed in Rapallo
Il Nido, Via Privata Sangguinete 4, 16035 Rapallo
Some of the images below are mine and some are from the Booking.com site.
I really enjoyed staying in this apartment in Rapallo. The apartment is a small attic space. The layout and design of the apartment has used all of the tricks in the book for ensuing every space is used well, is efficient, functional. The apartment is small but somehow feels spacious with the clever use of strategically placed sky lights which fill the apartment with light but also provides extra head room at the lowest sloping part of the roof.
Absolutely everything in the apartment is of a high quality.
There is a lift to the apartment with only a dozen or so stairs to the apartment – always a bonus in Italy; the heating works well – central heating (controlled for every apartment) and a stand along reverse cycle air conditioner in case you need more warmth; the wifi signal is good; the bed is comfortable; the kitchen is well equipped with a gas stove, fridge, washing machine and every utensil and electronic item you need. The bathroom is small but also has a strategically placed sky light for additional space and light along with extra towels, heaters, hairdryer and soaps – even tea lights.
Rosita has thought of everything. Would definitely stay again. If you want to book this apartment click through on the booking.com logo below. It’ll take you through to Rosita’s place.
